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История Коко Шанель

13 Июля 2015

В наши дни всему миру стала известна Габриель Борньез под псевдонимом Коко Шанель, как один из самых одаренных французских модельеров. Она родилась в августе тысяча восемьсот восемьдесят третьего года, в небольшом провинциальном городке Совюр. Рано потеряла родителей, и их с братом, который родился гораздо позже, отдали на воспитание в детский дом на попечение государственного муниципалитета. Достигнув совершеннолетия, она некоторое время работала в одном из парижских варьете, где заслужила прозвище Коко, в честь полюбившейся песенки из популярного мюзикла. Пользовалась большой популярностью у мужчин, но была уволена с работы из-за разразившегося скандала между двумя офицерами, оказывавшими ей знаки внимания. Она устраивается на должность продавца в магазин модных женских шляпок, и с этого момента начинается ее карьера, как модельера.

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«Для того, чтобы очаровать мужчину женщине нужно только черное маленькое платье»,- эта ее фраза стала нарицательной, но не только благодаря маленькому платью вошла она в историю моды. Дело в том, что в середине девятнадцатого века действовали совсем другие каноны моды. Это был викторианский период, когда женщины носили строгие платья длиною до пола, закрытые по линии горловины. Для улучшения собственной фигуры еще применяли корсеты на жестком китовом усе, который очень часто нарушал естественную циркуляцию крови. Платья строгого прилегающего силуэта украшались различными драпировками, рюшами и оборками. И хотя летом их изготавливали из шелка, сатина или ситца, а не из шерстяных тяжелых тканей, как зимой, все равно в них было очень жарко, они стесняли движения и приносили женщинам еще массу других неудобств. Девизом для работы Коко Шанель стала простота в носке и эксплуатации женских вещей наряду с высоким качеством индивидуального пошива. Она полностью устранила идею ношения корсета и нижних юбок, а также существенно снизила длину пошиваемых изделий. Линия низа ее моделей застыла на середине икры, открыв любопытным мужским взглядам красоту и прелесть стройных женских ножек. Она отказалась от полностью закрытой горловины и гротескным украшениям к ней. Вместо этого она ввела в моду глубокую линию выреза, подчеркнув естественное очарование женской груди. Существенно расширила ассортимент женской одежды, предложив на суд публики несколько моделей брюк, которые ранее считались только мужской одеждой.

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После смерти Коко Шанель в январе тысяча девятьсот семьдесят первого года ее модный дом возглавил Карл Лагерфельд, продолжая внедрять в повседневную жизнь ее революционные идеи. Коко Шанель можно по праву считать основоположницей современной моды.

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